Monthly Archives: April 2008

take two and call me on one of my six phone numbers in the morning

Below are all the Indian medicines we have collected in our closet.

I look at this picture and think, “We’ve only been in India since November, but look at how much we’ve gotten sick.”

Dave looks at this picture and thinks, “I have no idea what any of this medicine is for.”

Whatever it’s for, it was cheap. The above collection is worth maybe $25.

You go see the doctor. “Tell me,” they say, of course. And you divulge your mysterious skin rash or what not. They listen, take notes, and end the consultation by prescribing a list of brand names that must be comforting and familiar to Indians, but mean nothing to us. Strepsils? Brufen 600? Ibucomb? Betadine? Lastuss LA? Telekast-L? STIBS? Rablet D? Mit’s Linctus?

You take your prescription to a pharmacy and the pharmacist proceeds to pile tablets and boxes onto the counter. Dave recalls picking up a week’s worth of antibiotics, painkillers and vitamins for me and the total was 100 Rupees – $2.50.

In Delhi, doctors are cheap, foreign-educated, and they give out their cell phone numbers as well as five additional numbers.

How do I choose which to call?

With the price of medicine and the availability of doctors, you’re actually lucky to get sick in India. But when you really think about it, not really, because it’s India that makes you sick.

things you take for granted

You’d assume that a vegetable seller, after a fourteen-hour day weighing melons and bagging tomatoes, can at least look forward to going home at night. But an 11:15 PM walk through the market taught us differently. Milk sellers, fruit vendors, newspaper wallahs — there they all were, some on cots and some on the ground. The cot outside the flower stand had two people sleeping on it.

this is a joke, right?

I mean… it’s only April.


Dave posted the above. I have this to add:

Who to believe? Weather.com and BBC put the high temperature at 106.  Dave got the weather from a widget on his computer.

Interestingly: though Indians have good reason to be obsessed with the weather (especially in Delhi, which has a very harsh climate), they aren’t. No one small talks about the weather. People don’t discuss how hot it is today, how hot it’s supposed to get tomorrow, etc. In fact, when I went to the websites of the two major newspapers in Delhi, I searched and searched and couldn’t find anything about the weather.

One reason may lie in the sameness of the weather in New Delhi. It hardly ever rains; it doesn’t get windy or overcast. It’s just a sunny cold day or a sunny hot day — week after week. Knowing that, I suppose making this a topic of small talk makes you an especially dull person.

varanasi

We took a lot of great pictures at this fascinating, beautiful, and overwhelming city. My favorite is below.

what American music may come II

You don’t have to tell me how pathetic it is to a) go to Ruby Tuesday’s when you’re living in India, b) go to Ruby Tuesday’s more than once while you’re living in India, and c) go to Ruby Tuesday’s on your wedding anniversary. But that’s what we did tonight. The reason was this: after the amazing soundtrack I heard last time (Vanilla Ice, Right Said Fred, and The Chicken Dance, among others), Jenny wanted to get a taste of their musical stylings. And she really wanted a fajita, no matter how crappy it would inevitably be.

So we sat down, ordered, and listened. The first song we heard: Infatuation by Rod Stewart. The second song we heard: Infatuation by Rod Stewart. The third song we heard: Infatuation by Rod Stewart.

We sat there for an hour. The fajitas were worse than expected (cauliflower? broccoli? paneer???), the hot wings were anything but, and Rod Stewart never, ever stopped.

“Oh no not again
It hurts so good
I don’t understand
Infatuation
Infatuation…”

building on the Dashashwamedha ghat, Varanasi

I liked the look of this building, but I couldn’t capture it in a single frame.

8-bit Varanasi

Varanasi is the holiest Hindu city. It’s the city you’ve seen on National Geographic — the one with all the steps leading down to the Ganges, the one where the masses go to bathe and clean their clothes and purify their souls and, if they’re lucky, be cremated upon death. One of the oldest continually-inhabited cities in the world, it’s a cacophony of sites and sounds and smells unlike anywhere we’ve been in India thus far.

This post, though, is about Space Invaders.

invaders in varanasi

invaders in varanasi

These were all over Varanasi: paintings on the ghats, mosaics in the passageways. With twisting alleys, crumbling stone structures, and wandering Sadhus coming at us from every direction, Varanasi feels like it hasn’t changed in two hundred years. Which made these paintings and mosaics all the more incongruous.

invaders in varanasi

invaders in varanasi

Hinduism is said to have 330 million gods, depending on who you ask and how deeply you want to explore the theology. The keeper of Aurangzeb’s mosque in Varansi told us that, to Hindus, “the sun is a god, the river is a God, the cow is a god, the tree is a God.” Had we found the symbols of a sect worshiping Inky and Blinky alongside Ganesh and Vishnu?

invaders in varanasi

invaders in varanasi

The invader above is painted on a building that is part of the Harishchandra Ghat, one of the two points in the city where bodies of the faithful are burned. We spoke to a member of the family who runs the burning ghat, an older man with glasses and betel-stained teeth, walking hand-in-hand with his young grandson. “What are these paintings?” I asked him.

“Some symbolic thing,” he replied.

“Who made them?”

“Some tourist,” is what I heard him say. Jenny heard him say, “Some Buddhist.” We’re not sure which it was.

“Do the people like these symbols?” I asked him.

“Well, nobody’s been killed. So why not?”

invaders in varanasi

invaders in varanasi

invaders in varanasi

Of course I did some Googling when I came home. These imagers were placed here by an artist called Invader. He roams the world creating exactly these kind of installations — thirty-five cities so far.

invaders in varanasi

invaders in varanasi

According to Invader’s site, there are fourteen invasion points in Varanasi. Without knowing how many we were looking for, we found and photographed thirteen of them.

invaders in varanasi

I look forward to returning to Varanasi; I want to find number fourteen.

an ominous sign

We’ve been psyching ourselves up for the summer ever since the abrupt end of winter in February. The temperature was 104 today, and it’s only early April. Our apartment has seven ceiling fans and four air conditioners, so I think we’re going to be okay, assuming the backup power keeps the AC flowing. However, I hadn’t realized how truly inescapable the elements will be until today, when I turned on the cold water tap and hot water came out.

Our water comes from a tank on the roof. The tank is made of black plastic. It sits in the hot sun all day. So much for cold showers as a means of escape.

learning new English

Lucky for us, business is conducted in English. Sure, the good jokes come in Hindi, and we sit there grinning as we pretend to know what’s so funny; but for the most part, we get by in the office in our Mother tongue. Except when our Mother tongue meets Mother India, where a brainstorm is an “ideation” and an annoyance is a “botherization.”

———

This is nearly every conversation we have when a stranger calls us:

Phone rings.

Me: Hello?
Person: Hello?
Me: Hello?
Person: Hello?
Me: (exasperated) Yes? What do you want?
Person: (confused) Ma’am?
Me: (nearly shouting at this point) WHAT?
Person: (tentatively) Ma’am, I’m calling from Vodafone about…)

We thought it was just us. What are we doing wrong? How are we supposed to answer the phone? Why do they always sound so confused when they call us, as if we’re the first sales call of their entire career?

And then we began to notice the receiving halves of “Hello? Hello?” during meetings. (In India, the person on the phone inevitably takes precedent over the person in front of you. There is literally no such thing as voice mail. Conversations end and meetings are put on hold for people to answer the phone. The first time Dave answered his phone with a quick “Jenny, I’ll call you back,” everyone in the room was shocked at how rude he was to his wife.)

So after paying attention to conversations around us, we’re convinced the Four Hellos happens to everyone, not just us. Except they don’t get exasperated. They don’t shout. That’s just us.

(By the way, when the above conversation occurred, I cut the sales guy off by telling him I wasn’t interested, and then I hung up without waiting for a response. The joke was on me: he patiently redialed and the entire conversation, including the Four Hellos, was then repeated in its entirety.)

———

On the other hand, if you *do* know the person calling you, you don’t say hello. You say “Tell me.”

When we call our landlord: “Yes, Dave. Tell me.”

When our bosses pick up the phone: “Yes, Anuj. Tell me.”

“Tell me.” Not “How’s it going?” or “What can I do for you?” or even “What’s up?” — just a jarring, demanding, abrupt, “Tell me.”

Me: “Hi, Prachi, this is Jenny from downstairs.”
Prachi: “Tell me.”
Me: “Uh…”

———

Dave’s coworkers have taught him Hindi curse words just to hear them said in his American accent. It’s like when you teach your four-year-old brother to say “doodie”. They giggle when he says lund (dick), they laugh when he says choothia (bastard), and they love it when he says bhen calera (a nonsense swear they made up especially for him; it means “sister dick”). And when Dave learned gaand meh le lo (eat my asshole), Dave’s boss ran around the office telling junior account staffers to go ask Dave for such-and-such piece of paper so he could hear him tell them to gaand meh le lo.

And lo, did the office ring with cruel laughter that day.

Dave is reciprocating. He recently taught his coworker the word “douchebag.” His coworker has a thick Bengali accent, though; he now runs around calling everyone “doozebag.”

———

Indian corporate and governmental entities don’t like to take responsibility for anything. Their efforts to apologize for the horrific state of the infrastructure take the passive voice to enterprising new heights with three simple words: “Inconvenience is regretted.”

“Rest assured,” they’re essentially saying, “that someone is sorry this four-lane highway is squeezed into one lane so we can spend six months installing these sewer pipes. We’re NOT saying that WE feel bad about anything; but we want you to know that someone, somewhere, is filled with intense remorse. Not necessarily us. But someone.”

At the airport, which is under a perpetual state of construction, someone somewhere is really ringing their hands over the plight of the traveler. “Inconvenience,” say the signs, “is deeply regretted.”

Leisure Suit Vijay

This boy was just about as excited to be wearing the suit as we were to be seeing him in it.

IMG_4269