Monthly Archives: July 2008

Rags-to-Pads: your chance to help rural Indian women

In the time we’ve been here, Dave and I have grown close to an organization called the Pardada Pardadi School for girls. On their behalf, we’re launching a fundraiser called Rags-to-Pads.

Pardada Pardadi is located in an area of Uttar Pradesh so poor that many women can’t afford pads during their period. So they typically use rags torn off old saris to staunch their flow — a practice that risks terrible infection every period from puberty to menopause.

We are raising $5000 to help Pardada Pardadi buy a machine that makes sanitary pads and support two of the school’s graduates as they start a pad-making business. The goal is to create a self-sustaining business that sells pads at around 25 rupees for packs of ten — simultaneously bringing an affordable and sanitary option to women on their periods while creating economic opportunities for women in an area that has next to none.

If 125 people donate $40 each (about what an American woman will spend on pads every year), we can make this happen. Once we reach $5,000, we’ll stop collecting money — this isn’t a charity, this is a donation of seed capital.

Learn more and donate at RagsToPads.com. Please help us spread the word! You can also see pics from our trip to Pardada Pardadi on Flickr.

peons

“Gopal!” shouted my boss. “Water!”

Across the office – way across, for my boss has quite a set of lungs – Gopal looked up. My boss and I were far closer to the water cooler than he was, but he quickly walked back past us and into the kitchen. He emerged and came to my boss’s side, patiently holding the glass out as my boss ignored him for a moment, for two moments, for a third moment, and then took the glass of water.

Gopal is a peon. Before I came to India I could think of few more derogatory terms to describe a low man on the totem pole; but I once looked my company’s employee handbook, and that’s exactly the word in official use. Also known as “office boys”, you find them in every business doing every unskilled task: washing dishes, fetching tea, making copies, moving tables, emptying trash, cleaning desks, couriering documents, putting your food on a plate, handing out napkins for cake when an office birthday is celebrated, and going down the street to buy cigarettes whenever anyone runs out.

This is how an economy responds to a glut of unskilled labor: supply pushes wages down the point where it’s cheaper to hire someone to get water for employees than it is for employees to spend thirty seconds getting it themselves.

I resisted when I first got here. How could I ask another human being to do something so trivial? Something I was perfectly capable of doing myself? When I needed water, or a pen, or a photocopy of my passport, I would try to make a statement: to show them that I saw myself as their equal. That I didn’t think myself above a little manual labor.

But they didn’t like it. They eyeballed me as I waved them away and worked the copier by myself. I smiled broadly, hoping that my egalitarian intentions were clear.

But they clearly didn’t like it. And why should they? It was like I had flown in from America to take their jobs. If I made my own copies and got my own water, and everyone else did the same, what would be left for them to do? Why would the company need them at all?

“In America, wealth is measured by what you own,” an Indian friend told us. He’d lived in America for four decades before returning to Delhi. “In India, it’s different: wealth is measured by what you can get people to do for you.”

I better understand the role peons play—and the opportunity this role provides. Fetching staplers and picking wrappers off our desks is a hell of a lot better than guarding an ATM or carrying bricks on your head. I’m still uncomfortable shouting my demands across the room. But I no longer wash out my own coffee cup. And when I need a pen, I know whom to ask. The supply closet isn’t my domain, it’s theirs. And it’s not just their domain – it’s their livelihood.

what American music may come III

We didn’t go in the Ruby Tuesday’s to eat. We understand how lame it is to travel halfway across the world just to go to the same place you went with your buddies in high school. But we had time to kill, and it was either Ruby Tuesday’s, or McDonalds, or Sbarro’s, or to walk around Nehru Place on a Sunday. (Bad idea.)

So in we went, and water we ordered, and books we read, and American music we did hear: Eye of the Tiger; We Will Rock You (the techno remix); The Final Countdown (the techno remix); Take These Broken Wings (the techno remix, believe it or not); I Don’t Want to Miss A Thing (the techno remix –who knew such a thing was possible?); and Land Down Under (yes, sadly, the techno remix).

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Speaking of The Final Countdown: listen to this.

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I did go into the KFC to eat. I understand how lame it is to travel halfway across the globe just to go to the same place I went with my buddies in high school, but sometimes you just get that craving. “Hey,” you think, “a taste of home would really hit the spot right now,” even though at home you haven’t eaten KFC at home since you were fifteen. The chicken tasted exactly as it did sixteen years ago, and the soundtrack was about the same as well: “To the extreme I rock the mic like a vandal / step on the stage and wax the chump like a candle”; “Come on , shake your body baby, do the conga / I know you can’t control yourself any longer”; “It’s ‘Hammer, go Hammer, MC Hammer, yo, Hammer’ / And the rest can go and play.”

driving with Sunita

There are supposedly 100,000 autorickshaw drivers in Delhi. But it took me only nine months of daily rides to find Sunita, the only female driver among them.

By now I’m practiced at negotiating, and I know how much it costs to go to work, so I almost let her go on her way because I wasn’t about to pay eighty rupees for a fifty-rupee ride. But I gave in at sixty, just for the novelty of the ride.

the dog

The dog wasn’t dead.  I saw her shape in the corner of my eye as I left my office building, headed into the cramped back alley to buy some chocolate.

I got a good look on my way back, nibbling my Kit Kat.  Thick cords of yellowish gunk trailed from both eyes and ran down her snout.  She was so skinny — her body looked grotesque, like she wasn’t a dog anymore. A collection of bones.  Foam bubbled thickly from her mouth.  I felt like vomiting.

She stuck in my mind over the weekend, like so many other upsetting images have: that naked baby girl lying in the dirt, in the sun, next to a busy road, like drying laundry; that dog beaten to death with a pole while kids ran to watch; and now, this living skeleton.

That Monday, I left my office during lunch, this time to buy a butter paneer sandwich. Again, in the corner of my eye, I saw a paw. And when I returned, I saw her get up and trot down the road. She didn’t look to be in any better shape.

sealed building on MG Road

the post-apocalyptic commute

What in India do I hate more than MG Road? Nothing. There is nothing in all of India worse than Mehrauli-Gurgaon Road, that ten kilometer stretch of pain upon which I stop-and-go for three hours of my day. MG Road is construction: the Delhi Metro, erecting itself on giant cement pylons, selfishly hogging the center two lanes in the name of urban planning and traffic reduction… what right does a transit system opening in 2010 have to inconvenience me in 2008?

MG Road is also destruction. Once upon a time the road gleamed with shopping malls and furniture stores; but two years ago, the government decided that these were illegal constructions necessary to be sealed. “Sealing” in practice means halfhearted bulldozing — enough to discourage inhabitance while creating the impression that you travel to Gurgaon by way of Beirut.

The government did this to these buildings two years ago, and this is how they left them, and this was my MG Road for my first four months in Delhi: honking and jerking my way past shuttered stores, broken windows, shattered concrete, skewed rebar.

But in February, commerce returned and rebuilding began. Recent workward slogs have beheld a new sight: men with sledgehammers gnawing at the piles of rubble, preparing for a new day when the Metro is complete, the traffic is reduced, the government is supportive, the shops are legal, and customers are extant.

Today MG Road’s endless flows of construction and traffic are brooded over by bored salesgirls staring glumly out of sharply-remodeled stores. Wicker World and Twinkle Sofa Mall have resurrected; but their customers have not. There’s nowhere to park, you see, that isn’t usurped by the glacial flow of cycles and bikes and Toyota Innovas.

Jenny contemplates the forest near Shimla

foggy forest near Shimla

Believe it or not, this photo is in color.

Nehru Place

On Sundays, Nehru Place is closed, with the shops shuttered and the plaza empty except for what appears to be two groups of beggars involved in a turf battle. While you see a few women slapping each other at the periphery of the plaza, your attention is drawn to the center, where two stick-thin men in rags writhe and flail and pin each other to the ground, oblivious to the police officer in his khaki uniform who, with the patience and deliberation of a man who has beat beggars a hundred times before and will beat them a hundred times after, pulls a nice long stick off a nearby tree and saunters up to the two men and whacks them and whacks them and you decide that maybe it’s better if you come back to Nehru Place some other day.

On every other day, Nehru Place is Delhi’s main computer market.

From the flyover, Nehru Place is a collection of concrete eighties skyscrapers clustered around a few central plazas. In the buildings themselves, a number of very legitimate businesses (including Microsoft) have very nice offices where they conduct very legitimate business. But on the ground level is India’s IT boom in action: an explosion of brand names, a cacophony of vendors, waves of young men in fashionable shirts, and ancient diesel generators that roar to life every time the power goes down.

The Indian retail economy is structured around clusters, with the best bargains and widest variety to be found in hubs where everyone is selling the same thing. There’s a spice market, an auto parts market, and a wedding invitation market, all of which house vendors resigned to papadum-thin margins in a competitive environment defined by shoppers who know that if one guy doesn’t offer his absolute lowest price, the guy in the next stall selling the exact same thing will.

Nehru Place is Delhi’s retail cluster for computers. Laptop repair specialists next to laptop repair specialists, hardware shops next to hardware shops, and printer cartridge vendors as far as the eye can see.

Everything at Nehru Place seems slightly illegitimate, probably because of the brazenness with which definitively illegitimate business is conducted. The grinning guy in the yellow shirt waves a printed catalog of pirated software at me, promising Microsoft products for the price of a Big Mac. I find him indistinguishable from the other vendors, which makes me suspect everything: are the boxes of printer paper from the back of some truck? Are the ten-dollar computer speakers built using five-dollar parts? Are the HP ink cartridges filled with genuine HP ink, or indeed any ink at all?

All levels of retail sophistication have a presence at Nehru Place, from mom-and-pop-run closets stuffed with 1990’s VGA monitors to gleaming showrooms featuring shiny new brands. I got my Apple power adapter repaired in a shadowy twelve-by-twelve explosion of wires and motherboards and empty cases; the guy who actually did the work was perched in a wooden loft, surrounded by tools, his head mere inches from the ceiling. His effort set me back three dollars, and extended the life of my power adapter exactly one week before it failed for good.

You can’t imagine that this place once didn’t exist. The ancient old man screwdriving logic boards must have learned the trade from his father; the overstuffed cubicles must contain computers dating back to the Raj. Nehru Place is the new subsumed by the old: the greatest advances of humankind brought into a market that feels centuries unchanged.