Monthly Archives: March 2008

our Holi

We began like this:

holi

It didn’t last long.

I don’t know much about Holi. Few of the Indians I spoke to seemed to have any idea where it comes from or what it means. Wikipedia thinks it has something to do with the immune system; our friend Hemanshu says it’s related to the farming cycle. Whatever the case may be, the big thing about Holi is that you “play colors”.

This is Jenny and our friend Manual about ten minutes after we arrived the party. I don’t know the guy who threw it, but he decided to let 100+ Indians and expats completely destroy the lawn in front of his huge mansion. To facilitate our technicolor destruction, he provided a DJ, live musicians, food, beer, and bhang, which I’ve already described. That’s what’s in the terra cotta cup Jenny is holding. A servant presented us with a tray of it almost the moment we arrived.

Our gracious host generously filled and refilled the color table with certified non-toxic powders. (Apparently India suffers a minor epidemic of rashes and burns due to dodgy Holi colors.) One plays Holi thusly: you grab a fistful of powder and throw it at someone. Or rub it in their hair. Or solemnly smear if on their face, as did the five Indian teenagers who came upon me as we were looking for the party. (Each one ceremoniously hugged me afterwards.) Or grab a bucket of liquid dye and drench somebody. Or pick someone up toss them in the plastic pool.

Jenny began with a yellow base and transitioned steadily to red:

Whereas I simply added sloppy accents to a consistent motif:

We ended like this:

Jenny hides it well, but you can tell from that picture that the bhang is taking its toll on me. After staring at the dancers for another hour, we took a surreal autorickshaw ride home (“Whoa… the market is… like… deserted!”), giggled our way up the staircase (they’d never seemed so tall or taken so long to climb), and took the first of many futile showers. Twenty-four hours later, Jenny’s hair is still green.

high Holi day

My meeting ended at 7:15; by the time I got back to the office, nearly everyone had left. Two of the youngest members of the team were still there, as was one of the most senior. I was too late — I had missed the office Holi celebration.

March 22 is Holi, a holiday I’ll write more about after I’ve experienced it. The best-known Holi tradition is Dhulhendi, in which people throw colored liquid and powders on each other. My coworkers were about to introduce me to another tradition.

“Have a sweet, Dave!” said Young Coworker #1, handing me the box. This wasn’t unusual — sweets are usually passed out the day before a holiday. Inside the box were orange balls slightly smaller than eggs. I picked a bite-sized piece off one of the balls and continued to my desk.

“No, Dave,” said the coworker, grinning far too broadly to be trusted. “Eat the treat in the middle!”

I looked in the box. Revealed under the chunk I had picked off was a shiny black center, a lima bean-sized lump of something.

Young Coworker #2 pressed his way over. “Make sure you eat that part, Dave!”

So I did. It was bitter.

My Senior Colleague was amused. He almost looked proud. “That’s bhang,” he told me after I finished chewing — a kind of cannabis of uncertain (to me) legal status. A Holi tradition, Senior Colleague assured me. “You should have four to make sure you have a really good evening.”

I only had two. But I brought one home for Jenny as well.

They worked as advertised.

After four months in India, we’re already famous

Below is a scan of pages S-22 and S-23 of the March 17, 2008, issue of India Today. It features one of the worst pictures I’ve ever taken, one of the worst pictures our friend Christi has ever taken, one of the worst pictures our friend Sachin has ever taken, and a nice little quote from Jenny.


(click for bigger image)

The building

 

What you see above is what I see every morning 45-60 minutes after I leave the house: my office building. Every morning I pass it, sigh, continue down the road another 500 meters (five minutes, thanks to traffic) to the U-turn, make the turn, and then get dropped off for ten to twelve hours of chaos.

Doesn’t look quite finished, does it? It’s like the second Death Star: structurally incomplete, but fully operational. Well, nominally operational, anyway. We were one of the first tenants when we moved in back in October, but it wasn’t until about two weeks ago when they had enough elevators running to make it more likely to take an elevator up the five flights than to walk up the stairs. Things were so bad that most people would pack into the elevator as it hit the ground floor on the way to sub-basement three and then ride it back up. You never had a chance of getting into an elevator that was actually going up.

Today, nine of the twelve elevators work. Our hallway no longer reeks of sawdust and varnish. And the cosmetic touches, like that giant decorative whatsit reaching skywards past the sixteenth floor, are almost done. Just in time for my company to pick up and move to a new office another kilometer down the road.Which is what we’re doing in April.

UPDATE: Here’s a picture of my office building from the front page of the March 2 New York Times!

Here’s my clients’ building. Here’s another view of my building. Here’s the bane of my existence: traffic. And here is where I actually sit and stare forlornly at the traffic:

Here is the road I have to take home: