Monthly Archives: September 2008

the four thieves

The four thieves surrounded us as soon as we stepped out of the auto.

Each thief was carrying a metal bucket to disguise himself as a beggar. (You see bucket-bearing beggars on Saturday, soliciting coins as an offering to the god Shani to wash away your sins in the mustard oil each bucket contains.) But it was instantly clear that these four weren’t looking for a handout.

“Money!” they screamed, scrambling around us, keeping up their pretense of charity as they expertly separated Jenny from me. “Please, sir! Money! Chapati!” One of the thieves backed into Jenny with his arms spread wide, forcing her backwards as the remaining three danced around me, screaming and swiping at my pockets.

“Watch your bag, Jenny!” I hollered, jamming my hands into my pockets, wrapping my left hand around my phone and my right hand around my wallet. “Let’s go!”

It’s hard enough to cross the street without getting killed even when you’re not dodging the sticky fingers of four bandits trying to work their way through your defenses. We avoided the speeding autos long enough to make it to the median, an island of concrete two feet high and four feet wide. The thugs followed us. Traffic raced by on both sides of the street.

We were trapped.

The bandits had discovered that there was SOMETHING  in my unguarded back pocket, which meant my left hand had to alternate between covering my phone and swatting at their grasping hands. It was just my moleskin notebook — hardly worth stealing, but how could I explain that to them? They were to my right, but traffic was coming from my left; my head jerked back and forth, searching for a break in the cars while keeping an eye on my assailants, unable to concentrate successfully on either one. Across the road, I glimpsed salvation: crowds, open space, and security guards whose dominion of protection didn’t seem to extend across the street. They weren’t paying any attention to us.

Hut!!” I shouted in my most commanding voice. “Away!” All four of the thieves jumped. I shoved the nearest one in his chest. He began flailing wildly at me, screaming, his fists pumping. I held my hand on his chest. Fortunately I was much taller than him; I kept  him at arm’s length, his fists landing on my arms but causing no damage.

The traffic finally cleared and we dashed across the street. Our attackers shouted after us from the median, but came no closer. Our belongings were accounted for. We were safe.

Those were four scary six-year-olds.

in for repairs

There are certain practices that seem so perfectly normal in your own culture that it takes immersion in a completely foreign way of life to realize how absurd they are.

For instance: what would you do with a toaster that doesn’t toast? With an electric lunchbox that doesn’t heat up? With a t-shirt that’s too big?

If I was home, I would a) throw it away, b) throw it away, and c) give it to Goodwill.

But here in India, I a) get it fixed, b) get it fixed, and c) get it fixed.

There are at least a dozen tailors set up and sewing away in our main market, not counting the guy repairing shoes on the sidewalk who you pass on the way there. There are also at least three electricians in the north-west corner of the market alone, sitting in their closet-sized shops overflowing with spools of wires and dusty motors from appliances long-since disassembled.

After twenty rupees and two hours, the Indiana Jones t-shirt I bought in Thailand is now the right size. After 150 rupees and two days, I don’t have to buy a new toaster and I don’t have to buy a new lunchbox.

Fixing stuff instead of throwing it away! Only in India.

(By the way, you read that right: electric lunchbox. They’re great, except when they fail.)

help put Rags-to-Pads over the top!

A few weeks ago, we launched a fundraiser on behalf of the Pardada Pardadi Educational Society. The goal of Rags-to-Pads is $5,000 that will support graduates of this rural Indian school in starting a business manufacturing and marketing sanitary pads. This provides both economic opportunity and improved health in an area where women don’t have enough of either.

As of this writing, we’re less than $250 short of our $5,000 goal!

If you read this blog, that means you’re enjoying our experience in India. We need your help to make this experience even better by giving back to our host country. All we ask is $40, which is roughly what a healthy woman in a big city spends on sanitary napkins and tampons during a year. Please help put us over the top by making a donation now!

the five-rupee showdown

Birender stared at the tollbooth operator.

The operator stared into the distance.

Behind us, cars began to honk.

I normally pay attention when we approach the toll, and pass money to the driver before we reach the window. I also normally ride home in a beat-up Tata Indicar. I’m also normally driven by one of the employees of the taxi stand. But on this day, I found myself sitting in the back of a hulkingly new Toyota Innova, driven by the owner of the taxi stand himself, who had pulled out a massive wad of cash and was already handing the tollbooth operator forty rupees before I even realized it was time to pay.

The tollbooth operator handed Birender nothing back.

You can’t blame the guy for trying. Birender doesn’t dress like a driver — he dresses like a businessman. The tollbooth operator, seeing the wad and the finery and me in the backseat letting my driver pay for me, must have assumed that a rich driver driving around a rich passenger isn’t going to care about five measly rupees.

So the tollbooth operator said he had no change.

Birender looked at him and waited.

Behind us, traffic began to pile up.

There was no anger on Birender’s part. Nor did the tollbooth operator pantomime an elaborate hunt for change. One simply stared at the other; the other simply stared straight ahead. Behind us, cars packed into gridlock and leaned on their horns. Would this turn into one of those riots you read about in the paper, where the Indian mob exacts swift and bloody revenge on whomever it decides is responsible for whatever travesty they’ve beheld? Would they surround our Innova, rock it, overturn it, ignite it, and dance in the light of our flaming bodies? Or would Birender’s silver tongue convince them that we were the victims, turning the mob to pelt the tollbooth operator with stones the size of five-rupee pieces while the khaki-clad cops leaned on their beating sticks and watched him suffer?

As it turned out, the tollbooth operator broke first. Five long minutes later, five rupees magically materialized, and we were on our way.

the delhi metro

We rarely ride the Delhi Metro. It mainly serves North Delhi; and while they’re expanding it south all the way to Gurgaon, they’ve got at least eighteen more months of construction before our lives would get any easier. But the few times we’ve ridden it, we’ve been shocked by its cleanliness, its efficiency, and its punctuality. It’s a snapshot of a Delhi-that-never-was, or perhaps a Delhi-that-someday-will-be.

The Metro is the pride of Delhi; its managing director, Dr. Elattuvalapil Sreedharan, is spoken of with universal reverence as a man who can create miracles on time and on budget in a city littered with civic projects gone horribly wrong.

The last time we rode the Metro was in March. It was our first time transferring at Connaught Place (one of the two inter-line transfer points), and it was incredible. The crowd inside the train started pushing out and the crowd outside the train started pushing in far before the doors were open. What ensued was a free-for-all of shoving, of leading with the elbows, of shouldering the person in front of you into the person in front of them, of women using their babies like a quarterback uses his blockers.

We rode the Metro again about two weeks ago. Expecting the transfer at CP to be just as insane, I came armed with the camera. My first thought upon descending the stairs: “There is no way all these people will fit into the train.”

But once we made it down the stairs and into the crowd, we discovered that the Delhi Metro authorities had, in the interim, instilled something in their ridership I’ve never seen in the New York subway: perfect order.

Everyone lined up? Nobody jumping the queue? Adequate space left for people getting off the train?

Where was I, and what had they done to Delhi?

I recorded a video anyway, hoping to capture the chaos I expected once the train doors opened. Instead: behold the most orderly on-boarding I have ever experienced in all my years commuting.

New Delhi: 1. New York: 0.

dyed fabric drying

See it bigger on Flickr.

mumbai

You can see full-size versions on Flickr.

Karim’s

It’s the breathless refrain every expat asks every other expat in Delhi: “You haven’t been to Karim’s yet?!?”

The unmarked alley entrance means you’ll never stumble upon it. This is the allure of Karim’s: to go there is to discover a secret of the old city.

Some people will tell you it’s the oldest restaurant in Delhi. Other people will tell you that they invented Mughal-style food. The truth doesn’t really matter. Only the food does.

You don’t know what to look at first — the kebab guys, the bread guys, the guys carrying more dishes than seems possible, the motorcycles honking as they weave through what you’d think was the middle of the restaurant, or the proprietors of each of the four dining rooms who, inexplicably, appear to be in competition with each other for your patronage.

Every time we go, we learn a new secret. Last time we learned that the Karim’s Veg dish, with paneer, dates, and some sort of nut-based gravy, is the stuff of dreams. The time before that, we learned that they serve breakfast. This time we learned that the half-inch of oil puddled atop every bowl of stew isn’t supposed to be eaten. It’s there to show you that the food has been cooked so well that the fat has liquefied; the fat itself is meant to be drained into a separate dish.

Our parents are coming in November to visit. In the days they spend with us before embarking on their packaged tour, we’ll make sure they know this secret of the old city; and when they meet up with the rest of their tour group, they’ll be the ones breathlessly asking, “You haven’t been to Karim’s yet?!?”

the craziest sight on the road #4

The tow truck had an obvious design flaw: its boom barely extended past its bumper. The chains it was using to tow the car were good at transferring the truck’s accelerating force to the car, but useless for transferring deceleration — when the truck slowed, the chains would go slack, and the car being towed would crunch into the truck’s bumper well before the chains went taught again. That’s why most tow trucks have either long booms or pieces of rigid metal to transfer the truck’s decelerating force to the car.

But metal is expensive here. And people are cheaper. Which gives us the craziest sight on the road #4: two men, each with one foot on the back of the tow truck and the other on the hood of the car. Human pieces of rigid metal, standing on both vehicles as the truck rumbles down the street, centered above the void, employed solely for the ability of their leg muscles to transfer the deceleration of the first vehicle to the second.

These men held the truck’s boom in a death grip. Should the tow truck slow too fast, they had no men standing on THEIR shoulders to keep them from crunching into the tow truck’s cab.

ceiling fan at Karim’s