Monthly Archives: April 2009

it’s official: Our Delhi Struggle will be a book!

It’s finally official. The blue ink is dry and the envelope is closed and the contract is airmailing its way to Harper Collins. Now all that awaits is a manuscript.

The book will be part memoir and part guidebook: an in-depth exploration of the Delhi we lived, the lessons we learned, and the funny things that happened to us. It’ll be like this blog, only much longer, much more detailed, and much funnier.

Writing has begun, and will continue for the next six months. We expect to release the book next April July, just in time to channel the excitement of Delhi’s Commonwealth Games into fame and fortune.

If you want updates about the book’s progress and an invitation to the big release party next April July, send your email address to ourdelhistruggle AT gmail dot com. You can also follow us on Twitter: mmmmdave and JennySteeves.

This blog will be an integral part of the writing process. We’ll rely on readers’ opinions and insights to add detail to the book. Right now, for instance, we’re writing the section on getting around Delhi, and all the white-knuckled moments we’ve had in the back of an autorickshaw. Our question to you: what was your scariest auto-related experience?

peeing men

We’re certainly not the first commentators to observe this scourge. You see them everywhere you go in Delhi, and you smell them everywhere they’ve been.

I don’t believe the reason is a lack of public conveniences so much as their inaccessibility, situated as they are in neighborhood markets; most of the peeing I noticed takes place on Delhi’s broad, featureless boulevards lined by cement walls that segregate those who live inside from those they want to keep out. These roads are plied by men who travel long distances and don’t have time to negotiate neighborhoods in search of public toilets. Thus, with the sheer volume of men on the roads, your journey from any Point A to any Point B will inevitably pass dozens of Point Ps along the way.

I’m a critic of this practice, as most men would claim to be if you asked them. And like most men, I suspect, I’m also indulgent in it, having peed on the side of a Delhi road exactly one time: commuting in the office cab with my coworkers, we decided to celebrate the fact of a Friday night with beer and booze on the ride home. And somewhere in the wilds of Vasant Kunj, nature called, and we all spilled out of the cab and on to the ground.

But even if each one of the male half of the 16 million Delhiites were like me, peeing once a year in a moment of desperation, that’s still 21,949 men peeing on the road any given day. And if the problem is even slightly more habitual, with each man averaging 10 times a year, then you’ve suddenly got 219,490 men urinating on just 25,000 kilometers of road every day. That’s one man per hundred meters. Suddenly you realize this fixture of the urban landscape is less about manners and more about inward-focused urban planning that leaves street-sides featureless and anonymous—good for nothing but passing by and peeing on.

There are two techniques to dissuade men from peeing on a wall: using shame, and using divinity. Our downstairs neighbor, Benoy, a crazy old man with wild white hair who constantly told us that his fellow countrymen “can’t be trusted,” would shout from his terrace at men peeing on the street below until they pinched off, zipped up, and moved on; rumor has it that he would sometimes chase after them down the road. Our other neighbor, Amba, relied on her gift for aphorism: she would sidle up to a leaky fellow and ask, “If you do it in the road, what is the difference between you and a stray dog?” These men, too, would stop and go somewhere else.

The other way to stop the urinaters is to cement tile portraits of Hanuman or Krishna or Sai Baba or Jesus into the wall. No man will pee on another man’s god.

(You can see pictures of this practice here, here, and here; this is one picture we forgot to take.)

It goes without saying, of course, that we never saw any women peeing on the street. Modesty forbids it: no matter how bad a woman has to go, she had to hold it until she is somewhere decent. As always, life is much worse for the female.

india and nepal say happy birthday dad

Today is Dave’s Dad’s sixtieth birthday. Since we’ve known for a while that we would be in Asia during his big day, we decided to celebrate by asking everyone we met while traveling through India and Nepal last month to wish him happy birthday. Enjoy!

(And we know that the lyrics of Bilo Rani aren’t exactly what you’d sing to your papa, but 1) he doesn’t understand the lyrics and neither do we, and 2) it’s got a great beat. We asked our friends if they knew any Hindi songs that were actually about one’s father, and they suggested this slightly creepy piece. Creepiness begins at 0:30.)

roshan di kulfi

Before we left Delhi, Jenny and I did our best to make it to our favorite restaurants one last time. Not Karim’s, because the first time is the best and it trends towards mediocre the more often you visit. I’m talking about the mall for Jenny’s favorite paneer tikka (yes, her favorite was at the mall); Sagar’s and Saravana Bhavan for dosas and uttapams; Flavors for pizza; and Roshan di Kulfi, all the way up in Karol Bagh, for breakfast, snacks, and dessert all in one sitting.

Jenny and I can’t remember if we discovered RdK ourselves our were led there by our good friends at Eating Out In Delhi. Either way, we know from Hemanshu’s blog that Roshan di Kulfi has been a Karol Bagh favorite for decades. It’s one of those places where the crowd spills out the door and if you want a seat, you have to hover over people who look like they’re finishing so you can snatch it up the moment they stand.

Kulfi” is ice cream, Indian style. “Roshan di” means, well, I’m going to assume it means “Delicious gooey noodles that we put on top of”.

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RdK’s specialty is kulfi falooda, which is ice cream with sweet rose-water noodles on top, plus bits of almond and pistachio for good measure. It’s something better tasted than described.

But RdK goes beyond dessert — or, rather, it’s got stuff that comes before dessert. We ordered chole bhatura, a Punjabi chickpea dish most often served for breakfast, and raj kachori, which is a big ball of pastry filled with all sorts of stuff and covered with all sorts of sauce.

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A ball of stuff and sauce: we can’t get more specific (and it doesn’t get much better) than that.

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Singapore update #1: here we are

After a month of sweaty bus seats and heat rash and coconut in every entrée and stuffing ourselves silly forty-six cent lunches and Tamil temples and Kerala sunsets and Nepalese hats and ear infections and stolen cameras and recovered cameras and re-stolen cameras and body boarding and five dollar hotels and mosquitoes and relaxation, and a further week of wearing out our welcome in our friends’ spare rooms and eating at our favorite restaurants one last time, we’ve packed our bags and left India with slightly fewer possessions than with which we arrived (not counting the three extra suitcases brought back to the US full of wicker crafts and indigenous arts and massive custom Bollywood posters we didn’t want to drag around Asia with us).

And now we’re in Singapore.

Delhi is still on our minds and in our hearts. Walking around this strange city and seeing its unfamiliar people, we alight on Indian faces; we want to walk up to them and tell them “We lived in India!” and be their friend because we’re seeing Singapore through their eyes as much as our own.

For the next two months, both Jenny and I will be volunteering for a charity here in Singapore as we hunt for jobs that, you know, pay. After a few missteps with the housing the charity provided (including a complete lack of electricity, a complete lack of furnishings aside from two mattresses, and a toilet located behind a locked metal grate in an abandoned adjacent storefront), we’ve managed to find a flat and unpack two of our four giant bags.

Because real estate in Singapore is so expensive, most homeowners tend to rent a room to boarders. So we’re living on the top floor of a government housing complex with Jimmy and Fiona, a Singaporean couple of Chinese descent whose kids have fled the nest to make room for the two of us plus Casey, a Chinese guy who we’ve seen for exactly one minute over the course of the last three days. A retired airport cargo worker, Jimmy drives a taxi when the mood strikes him; other than that, the couple spend their day fawning and fussing over their neighbor’s baby, Peter, who has the largest head we’ve ever seen on a nine-month old.

Jimmy and Fiona are determined to make us feel at home—so much so that they’re nearly smothering us. They follow us around the house, making sure we know where we can find forks and coffee mix and liquor and towels and ordering us with every other breath to make ourselves comfortable. When Jimmy came upon me standing up in front of the TV to watch the news for a minute, he forced me into his easy chair, forced me to recline it, and forced me to lay back; and when I got up after completing the minute I wanted to watch, the look of disappointment on his face stung me. So when we discovered that Fiona was making our bed and doing our laundry after we left for work, we decided not to protest. If they want us to be comfortable that much, who are we to tell them no?